Shopping for denim fabric is such a satisfying part of planning a sewing project—especially once you get the hang of what to look for. Denim comes in a range of weights and finishes, and choosing the right one really depends on your garment.
Lightweight denim (around 6–8 oz or 200-270gsm) is soft and has lovely drape, which makes it ideal for shirts, dresses, or loose-fitting pants.
Midweight (9–11 oz or 300-375gsm) is the sweet spot for everyday jeans, overalls, or jackets—structured but still manageable on a home machine.
Heavier denims (12 oz or 400gsm and up) are great for workwear or more rigid styles, though they can be a bit tough to sew without the right needle and some patience.
One important feature to notice is the twill weave—the diagonal ribbing you’ll see on the surface of most denim. Classic denim is woven in a 3x1 twill, where the weft thread goes under one warp and over three. This creates the familiar diagonal line and influences how the fabric wears and fades. Twill direction matters too: right-hand twill (the most common) slants upward to the right and tends to feel smooth and structured. Left-hand twill runs the opposite way and usually softens faster with wear and washing—even if it doesn’t feel particularly soft right off the bolt. There’s also broken twill, which alternates the direction to form a zigzag, reducing leg twist and adding durability.
And if you're aiming for a vintage or rugged look, consider selvedge denim—woven on shuttle looms with a clean edge and a tighter weave, it’s a favourite among denim purists.
You’ll also want to check whether the denim has any stretch—1–2% elastane is common in jeans and helps with comfort and fit. Always pre-wash before cutting, especially if it’s raw or unwashed denim—it can shrink quite a bit and soften up with washing.
Here's a curated list of (non-affiliated) denim suppliers to get the ball rolling:
https://www.croftmill.co.uk/denim-fabric
https://www.patternscissorsfrock.com.au/collections/denim
https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/cotton-denim
https://www.clothhouse.com/collections/denim-twills-drills
https://www.blackbirdfabrics.com/en-au/collections/denim
Please also share your favourite places to shop denim (other than your stash!) in the comments below.
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