A few of you have asked how to remove the pleats from the front of the Burwood jeans, so I thought I'd share a tutorial for how to make a flat front version of the Burwoods!
Step 1
On the PANT FRONT [1], draw a straight line from one side of the pleat to the other (the pleat is indicated by two notches and an arrow). Mark the midpoint of the line marked with a vertical line. We will call the centre of the pleat point A.
Step 2
Mark a line from the bottom of the crotch STITCH LINE (the point where it intersects with the inner leg seam) across to the side seam. This needs to be perpendicular to the grainline. We will call this line B.
Step 3
Extend point A so that it intersects with line B. It also needs to extend up to the waist CUT LINE.
Step 4
Create a dart by drawing a line from each side of the pleat (from the STITCH LINE, rather than the notches), down to meet line B.
Step 5
a Cut down the line from point A until you reach line B. Cut along line B until you reach the crotch STITCH LINE. Cut in through the seam allowance towards the point you stopped cutting, creating a small 1-2mm hinge.
b Cut through the other side of line B until you reach the side seam STITCH LINE. Cut in through the seam allowance towards the point you stopped cutting, creating a small 1-2mm hinge.
Step 6
Use the hinges to rotate the upper sections of the pattern down. You will see that as you rotate, the large dart closes. Rotate the pieces until the two dart arms are overlapping. The two sides should line up at the bottom (circled in the illustration). Tape of glue in place.
Step 7
Draw a smooth curve over the alteration at the waist. Use a French curve if you have one.
Step 8
We now need to transfer the altered waist shape onto the POCKET BAG [9].
Take the POCKET BAG [9] and draw a line from the centre notch on the top to the one on the bottom edge. As the POCKET BAG is also the pocket facing, this will allow us to transfer the new waist shape onto both sides of the pocket piece.
Step 9
Slide the POCKET BAG under the FRONT, lining up the pocket opening STITCH LINE with the corresponding line on the POCKET BAG. Use a tracing wheel to transfer the new waist line STITCH line from the pocket edge to the notch onto the POCKET BAG.
Step 10
a Trace the markings made by the tracing wheel.
b Fold the POCKET BAG along the centre line and trace the new waist line onto the other side of the line - you can use a tracing wheel again if your paper isn't transparent enough to see the line.
c Add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the new waist edge on the POCKET BAG. Move the centre notch up to meet the new CUT LINE.
Step 11
Add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the new waist edge on the FRONT PANT. Move the centre notch up to meet the new CUT LINE. Although you no longer have a pleat, this notch is still handy when attaching the waistband.
Step 12
Smooth out the side seam on the STITCH LINE over the alteration. Add 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance.
I hope you find this tutorial useful and I'd love to see your Burwoods with pleats removed if you choose to go this way!