Sometimes it can be a little daunting cutting into precious final fabrics! But hopefully, after making a toile, you should be feeling more confident and have an idea of what your jumpsuit will look like! Here are a few tips for cutting and prepping your fabric!
Cutting your fabric
Wash and dry your fabric. Use the method you intend to use when washing your garment so it doesn’t shrink after its first wash! Give your fabric a good press before cutting.
Take your pre-washed fabric and fold it in half lengthways, with right sides together, on a cutting table or other flat surface. Bring the selvedges (woven edges of the fabric) together and smooth out any wrinkles. By folding the fabric in half, you will be able to cut two pieces at the same time.
Take your pattern pieces and lay them on your fabric, with the grainline of each pattern piece running exactly parallel to the selvedge (use a tape measure to measure from each end of the grainline, ensuring your pattern piece is on grain).
Use the cutting plans for the Neale Jumpsuit as a guide:
If a pattern piece asks for ‘CUT 1 ON FOLD’ - align the fold line on the pattern piece with the fold of the fabric, so that you will be left with a full pattern piece once cut. Use weights or pins to hold the pieces in place. Carefully cut out each piece. Be sure to transfer all pattern markings onto your fabric. To mark a notch, snip into the fabric 6mm (¼in). Mark drill holes with tailors chalk on the wrong side of the fabric or with a single stitch in a contrasting thread (by hand).
If fusing the BELT [6], 'block fuse' the amount of fabric required, before cutting the pattern pieces. More information about block fusing interfacing can be found on p 10 of the instructions, I've copied the page below.
Cutting tips
• If you are using silk or a similar substrate, consider cutting your fabric sandwiched between two layers of fine paper (pinning and cutting through all three layers). This will help keep the fabric on grain, and ensure the fabric doesn’t move while you are cutting. Use silk pins, and a nice sharp fine needle on your sewing machine.
• If you are using a lightweight fabric, consider using interfacing on facing pieces.
• If your fabric is thick or bulky, consider cutting one pair of IN-SEAM POCKETS [3] from a lighter weight fabric.
• Enjoy the process! It's not a race to the end.
I love to listen to a good podcast when I'm cutting. Let me know if you have any recommendations! And happy cutting! We'll be starting to sew our jumpsuits in the next week and will be posting some articles as we go! Feel free to go at your own speed, all of these articles will be found in the 'Neale Jumpsuit Sew-along' topic for whenever you're ready.