This was originally posted for the Whitlow robe in Curated, but can these tips are handy for any projects you'd like to use delicate fabrics like silk, a light cotton lawn or a linen with an open weave.
There are a few things you need to consider when working with these types of fabric.
1. Cut between layers of paper
If you've ever tried to cut a delicate fabric, you will know that it can be difficult! It can be hard to keep it on grain and it likes to shift around, which makes accurate cutting almost impossible. The solution to this is to cut between layers of paper.
This means that you lay out some paper (something fine like patternmaking paper) and then lay your fabric on top. Line up the selvedges with the straight edge of the paper to ensure everything is on grain. Gently use the tips of your fingers (or a ruler works too) to smooth out any bubbles in the fabric.
If your fabric is really prone to moving, you can lay another piece of paper on top of the fabric and then place your pattern pieces on top and pin through all layers.
Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric through the layer of paper. This will ensure that the fabric is stable and remains on grain. When you cut, you will cut through the fabric and the paper. You will notice a huge difference in how accurate you can cut when you cut like this.
I know a lot of you might be afraid to cut through paper with your fabric scissors, but there is nothing to worry about. This is standard practice in the industry and you can always get your scissors sharpened if you need to! It will be worth it to have accurately cut fabrics.
If your fabric is prone to stretching, leave your pieces pinned on the pattern paper until you are ready to use the piece.
For an example of what this looks like, check out this post from Threads Magazine.
2. Use a new machine needle
Put a new sewing machine needle in your machine so you know it's nice and sharp. It's also good to use a fine needle such as 60/8 or 70/10. For more info on selecting the correct machine needle, check out this post from Made to Sew.
3. If in doubt, hand baste
Hand basting can help things stay where they should be. For example, when sewing the Whitlow robe, you may hand baste the collar in place before stitching in the ditch. This will give you peace of mind and ensure everything stays where it should.
4. Use Tearaway
Tearaway is not that common in the sewing world, but is commonly used in the industry to prevent garments from stretching during the making process. It's normally used on seams such as the neckline and armholes.
In the case of the Whitlow robe, the front opening is cut on the bias and therefore prone to stretching. Tearaway shields is a good way to make sure you are not stretching the fabric as you sew. For more info on how to create Tearaway shields, see this post from Tessuti.
5. Don't skip staystitching
It's really important to staystitch fabrics in the areas that are prone to stretching. This normally includes necklines and armholes. Be sure to do this as soon as you pick up the piece for the first time so that it doesn't stretch as you work on your garment. In the case of the Whitlow robe, the area that is most likely to stretch is the front opening as it's cut on the bias.
If you're still worried your fabric is stretching, you can use stay tape. Measure the length of the centre front opening and then cut the tape to the same length. You then need to press it onto the seam allowance of the opening. Having it cut to the correct length will help you see if the fabric has stretched. If it has, use steam to shrink it back to size before applying the stay tape.
You can find a video from Lauren Guthrie here on how to use stay tape.
Other resources
We wrote a post about working with delicate fabrics for the Acton sew-along a few years ago. If you'd like to check it out, you can find it here.
Do you have any tips for working with delicate fabrics? W'd love to hear them!