#BurwoodJeansExtraResources #BurwoodJeansFitting
A few of you requested a tutorial on grading between sizes on the Burwood jeans so here it is! I hope you found it helpful and please do let me know if you have any questions.
ALTER FRONT
1. Use the layers option to print the sizes of the pattern you will be using.
You can grade between several sizes and the sizes don't need to be next to each other (as in A and B). For the tutorial I will be grading from a size C at the waist up to a D at the hip. You can also grade in the opposite direction - for example, have a larger size at the waist and a smaller size at the hip.
We will start on the FRONT of the jeans. You will need the FRONT [1] and the POCKET BAG [2] pieces.
2. Align the waist and side seam STITCH LINE on the POCKET BAG [9] with the FRONT [1] to create a full front. By "full front" I mean what the pattern piece would look like without a pocket, or what it will look like when assembled. It will depend on what type of paper you are using - you may find it easier to line things up by sliding the POCKET BAG [9] under the FRONT [1], or you may prefer to place it on top. Use a pattern weight to hold it in place.
3. On the side seam STITCH LINE, draw a line from the size you need at the waist to the size you need at the hip. I have indicated the HIP LINE on the POCKET BAG [9] which I have transferred from the FRONT [1] where it is marked. You will see in the example, I have gone from the smaller waist size to the larger by the hip using a smooth curve. A French curve ruler will help you get a nice hip curve if you have one.
4. Add seam allowance to the new line - adding the original seam allowance amount (in the case of the Burwood jeans it is 1.5cm (5/8in). Use a tracing wheel to transfer these new lines onto the parts of the pattern paper that are overlapping.
5. Remove the POCKET BAG [9]. If you had the pocket under the FRONT [1], draw in the tracing wheel markings with a ruler and pencil.
6. On the FRONT [1], draw in the markings made by the tracing wheel on the side seam. you will see in the example that these lines are right where the larger size lines are because the bottom of the pocket is below the hip line. This may or may not be the case for your pattern, depending on how many sizes you are grading between.
Grade between size on the CENTRE FRONT (crotch) seam and add seam allowance to the new seam.
7. Flip the POCKET BAG [9] so you can alter the other side of it if required. The POCKET BAG [9] of the Burwood jeans also is the POCKET FACING so any changes that happen to the side seam need to be transferred to the other.
8. Trace a copy of the POCKET SHIELD [8] onto pattern paper without cutting it out. The POCKET SHIELD [8] is the same for all sizes but will need to be altered if you are grading between sizes due to the change in shape of the side seam.
Place the traced POCKET SHIELD [8] onto the POCKET BAG [9], lining up the waist edges and pocket notches.
9. Trace the new side seam - STITCH LINE and CUT LINE - onto the POCKET SHIELD. alter the lower edge to reflect the shape of the lower edge of the POCKET BAG [9].
ALTER BACK
1. Take the two pieces that make up the back of the Burwood jeans - the BACK [2] and the YOKE [5].
2. A yoke is created by removing the back dart on a pair of pants. The curve of the yoke gives the shaping that is normally created by the dart. This means that you can't just stick the YOKE [5] onto the BACK [2] to grade the pattern as you would with a straight seam.
Line up the YOKE [5] with the BACK [2] on the side seam - aligning the intersection point of the side seam STITCH LINE and yoke STITCH LINE. You will only be able to line up a small section of the seam due to the curve. Hold in place with a pattern weight or pin.
3. Draw in the new side seam, starting on the STITCH LINE of the waist size and transitioning to the other size around the HIP LINE.
4. Add seam allowance to the new line. Use a tracing wheel to transfer the new lines onto the overlapping section of the pieces.
5. Remove the pattern weight or pin. Use a pencil and French curve (or ruler) to trace the markings made by the tracing wheel.
Rotate the YOKE [5] so that the CENTRE BACK STITCH LINE on the YOKE [5] and BACK [2] are aligned at the yoke stitch line.
6. Draw in a new CENTRE BACK crotch seam using a straight line between sizes. Add seam allowance to the new line.
Use a tracing wheel to transfer the line onto overlapping parts of the pattern pieces.
Remove YOKE [5] and trace over any markings made by the tracing wheel.
FINALISE YOKE
1. Highlight the BELT LOOP markings you will be using on the YOKE [5] piece. You want the markings that correspond to your waist size. Do the same for the waist notches as these correspond to the waistband for the waist size you have chosen.
2. You need to alter the seam allowance on the bottom of the YOKE [5] so that it fits with the BACK. To do this:
a. Extend the yoke seam STITCH LINE on both sides until it intersects with the new side seam and centre back crotch seams.
b. Fold back the seam allowance and use a tracing wheel to transfer the side seam and crotch seam shaping onto the seam allowance. You will need to do one side at a time due to the curve and it won't look as neat as it does here when I've done it digitally!
c. Unfold the seam allowance and trace over the tracing wheel markings. Cut away and excess pattern paper.
And you're done!