Whether you’re darning a small or large hole, the basic concept is that you rebuild the missing fabric by anchoring new threads into the healthy material around the damage, laying down additional threads to recreate the structure. The ultimate goal is to make the mend feel like it truly belongs in the garment.
The size of the hole will determine how much prep and how big the repair area needs to be, but the heart of the process is always the same — stitching new fabric right into the gap.
Small holes (under 1cm/ ½ inch) can generally be quite easily and quickly fixed: you might be able to get away with just tidying up the frayed edges and using the surrounding intact threads as you anchor points for the mend. For larger holes, or if the fabric around your small hole has worn thin, preparation is going to be more important — you’ll need to stabilise the area with interfacing or a backing fabric to ensure the mend will stand the test of time.
Alyx recommends measuring a fusible interfacing to be 2.5-5cm (1-2in) larger than the hole you’re repairing and applying it to the reverse of the hole. Trim frayed threads to improve aesthetics and prevent further damage, and be sure to extend your weave well beyond the hole for strength.
For darning denim invisibly, Alyx recommends selecting a perfectly matched thread using the Gutermann colour chart and stitching along the warp or straight grain of the fabric.
If you can't find the perfect shade of thread then choose a darker thread over a lighter one as darker threads tend to disappear whilst lighter ones tend to ‘pop’.
You'll want a thread that not only closely matches the original in colour but also fibre (usually cotton or a cotton/poly blend will suffice). For small holes consider using a finer, sharp needle for accuracy and minimal disruption to the weave. For larger holes, a slightly heavier or more robust denim thread can provide the extra strength needed to withstand wear, but it’s important to still match the thread weight to the denim’s thickness so the repair remains flat and flexible rather than bulky, puckered or stiff and ‘cardboard-like’.
When machine-darning small holes in denim, let the feed dogs move the fabric naturally and avoid pushing or pulling so the edges don’t draw in. For larger holes, the risk of puckering or stiffness increases, so you could experiment with using a slightly looser stitch density, lowering the presser foot pressure if possible, and smoothing the fabric flat as you work. Achieve perfect tension by supporting the denim fully on the table rather than letting it hang off the edge, which can lead to distortion, work at a steady, even speed. Pause occasionally to reposition the fabric if necessary, ensuring the repair area stays smooth and flexible.
Continue darning until no holes, frayed threads, or thin patches remain and you’ve stitched beyond the damage by at least 2cm (1in) in all directions. The darned area should feel strong, but not overly bulky or rigid. Remember to test your mend by gently tugging or stretching the area: does it hold without pulling apart? Sit, squat, or bend to mimic real-life wear.
Everyone darns differently and it’s a case of giving it a try to develop and fine-tune your technique.
Darning a small hole is often a preventative measure, stopping a minor flaw from spreading and helping the garment last much longer. Large holes, however, will always leave the repaired area slightly weaker than the original fabric, so it’s worth over-engineering the mend — extend your stitching well into strong, healthy denim around the hole.
It's worth mentioning that larger holes also present an opportunity for more creative visible patching. Since large holes are inherently more noticeable, invisibility just might not be realistic, which is the perfect opportunity to lean into visible mending with contrasting threads or decorative patterns! We’ll explore visible mending at more length later on in the month, stay tuned!
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