For many of you, the Darlow Bag might be your first-ever foray into making a bag. So this week we're sharing some useful tips for working with hardware.
Use a Strong Needle
When sewing webbing and hardware you'll basically want to using the strongest needle your machine can handle.
A jeans/denim needle (size 100/16 – 110/18) will be strong enough to penetrate thick webbing layers.
A topstitch needle (size 100/16 – 110/18) has a larger eye and is ideal if you're using thicker thread.
If you don't have a denim or topstitch needle then a universal needle (size 100/16) should just about do the trick. A size 110/18 universal needle would be even better at preventing bending or skipped stitches.
Use Heavy-Duty Thread
Heavy-duty polyester thread (tex 40 - tex 70) is the best choice for strong, UV-resistant seams on your bag straps
Upholstery thread (tex 40 - tex 60) would also work well on most domestic machines and provide durability to your bag.
Extra-strong all-purpose polyester thread (tex 30 - tex 40) would be fine for thinner webbing. It's a good option if you find your machine is struggling with thicker threads.
Optimise your Sewing Machine Settings
Use a walking foot or teflon foot to help prevent webbing from slipping and ensure even stitching.
Increase stitch length to 3.5mm - 4.5mm. Longer stitches will look and perform better on thicker fabrics like webbing. Longer stitches also lessen excessive needle holes weakening your webbing.
Reduce presser foot pressure to allow adequate space for your webbing to pass through the machine without friction.
Slow down when Sewing Multiple Layers to ensure even stitches and avoid broken needles!
Use a new, sharp needle. Webbing dulls needles fast so you'll need to replace them often if sewing multiple bags.
If your machine struggles with thick areas, hand-turn the wheel to manually help the needle through.
You can also use a hump jumper (or folded fabric) under the presser foot to level it out when sewing over thick seams.
Avoid Sewing Over Hardware
If you need to stitch close to hardware then use a zipper foot to get as close as possible without hitting it.
Hand-crank the machine when sewing near buckles and D-rings.
Reinforce Attachment Points
Use a box-X stitch for stress points.
Backstitch multiple times where straps meet hardware.
Use the Right Kind of Hardware + Webbing!
For an optimal outcome, the type of hardware you choose will depend on the purpose of your bag.
Metal hardware (brass, stainless steel, nickel-plated) is durable and stylish, but might add extra weight and tarnish over time.
Plastic hardware is lightweight - a great option for casual or sporty bags. But it may not be as long-lasting as metal hardware.
Use the Right Size of Hardware + Webbing!
It might seem obvious but webbing and hardware come in a variety of widths and sizes.
Making sure your D-rings, sliders, and buckles match the width of the webbing is not only going to provide an aesthetically pleasing appearance, but it will also prevent slipping.
Which leads us to...
Prevent Slipping on Sliders & Buckles
Use grippy webbing (like cotton or textured polyester) to prevent unwanted movement.
If using smooth webbing, add a row of stitching near the buckle to create resistance.
Test the holding power before final assembly.
Proper Strap Threading
Thread the strap over, under, and back through the slider for a secure hold.
Sew a bar tack stitch at the loose end to prevent accidental unthreading.
Test strap adjustability before final stitching.
Test Before Final Assembly
It's a good rule of thumb to test the hardware functionality to ensure proper fit and usability before stitching it all permanently in place.
Have you had much experience in bag making and working with hardware? Please share any tips in the comments below!
#DarlowBagExtraResources