We've had a lot of questions about FBA's so I've created some videos and pulled some visuals to help.
You can find tutorials on how to do an SBA (small bust adjustment) or FBA (full bust adjustment) and more information on how to find out if you need to do one in the fit kit. On pg 33 - 45.
NOTE: I've used a half-scale block in these videos.
I also struggled with dart placement after an fba. I traced my pattern on tissue, so I was able to fold and place the pattern on my body to try to find the right spot, but I’m sure there is a more elegant solution. Something I find difficult about FBAs is that it adds width to the front. My bust is larger than my hips and I’m not sure I graded down the excess width in the best manner.
Mélissa
How to take excess width from a pattern:
The easiest way to do this is to start with the waist and hip sizes that are true to your measurements. You can grade between sizes if needed. Then when you do the FBA (or SBA) you have this as a fixed reference to deduct the amount you had added.
If you need to add width after an SBA, you can follow this tutorial from the fit kit.
How to measure your bust apex:
You can definitely place the pattern on yourself and see. Another option is to sew a quick toile (of just the top part) to check. Or you can measure using the pattern and reference points throughout and then measure these on your body. For example, from the shoulder to the bust apex, from the waist to the bust apex and from the CF to the bust apex. It's best to use a couple to double-check they are correct. And bear in mind the patterns style, for example on the jumpsuit, the straps (and shoulder point) sit in the middle of the shoulder or a neckline may be lower etc. so you want to measure the same place on yourself. I've done a quick demo in this video:
There is a more detailed explanation from Made to sew below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdFUFPn6wbg&ab_channel=MadetoSew
If you have found your new bust apex and know you have to move it, there are several tutorial examples on pg 46 - 55 of the fit kit!
I got a bit stuck after doing a FBA then looking to rotate the dart to a French dart. So gave up and just have a jumbo dart for this toile (which is cut out and about to be sewed up). We will see how it fits, check my bust apex point and then review for next toile (if I need one).
Kirsten
I am with Kirsten. How big is too big for a single dart?
Helen P
I have created a video that should help answer these questions.
Can a dart be too big as a single dart:
When you're rotating darts you're keeping the same size and shape overall. You can see in the video below that I hold a few different dart rotations together and they remain the same size. As the bust gets bigger, the dart gets bigger to create a bigger curve around the bust. So technically, you shouldn't have a dart that's 'too big.' However, it can be problematic when you're sewing them, as you're going from a larger amount at the dart ends to the tip quickly.
EDIT: Kylie has linked to a great article in the comments below. https://curvysewingcollective.com/large-fba-issues-dealing-with-the-big-honkin-dart/
We'd love to hear about your experiences. Have you found that sometimes after an FBA, the dart is too big? If you have, what were your solutions? Have you tried splitting it into two?
How to rotate a dart:
There is also a tutorial on how to rotate to a French dart here, from the fit kit.
Rotating darts and what it does to the grain of other parts of the pattern. For example, do the jumpsuit straps need to stay on grain as some dart rotations forced them to be closer to the bias.
Helen A
This is a great question! I think it's something that's great to be aware of, but it shouldn't cause huge problems unless you're using a fabric that has a really loose weave or is prone to stretching out of place.
In the example of the straps, you will have the facing to reinforce the shape and you will have staystitched the armholes. If you felt like it was still going to distort or stretch out, you could fuse that area (using fusing/interfacing) before you start sewing, as it will be covered by the facing later.
I hope this has answered all your questions!