Re-drafting the hem facing on the Whitlow robe

 

If you have lengthened the Whitlow robe from the bottom, you will need to re-draft the hem facing pieces to fit the new hemline. 

Step 1
Take the FRONT [1] pattern piece and draw in the shape of the facing on the piece. The facing width is 6.5cm (2.5in) from the stitch line of the hem. If you are measuring from the cut line, it is 7.5cm (3in).

If you want to create a wider hem facing than what is in the original pattern, you can do so by marking the line further away from the hem edge.

I like to mark in a line like this with a broken line - then drawing the curve is easier.

Step 2
Take a piece of pattern paper and trace the hem facing piece. You don't have to mark in the stitch line if you don't want to. 

Transfer the grainline to the facing piece - it needs to be in line with the original front grainline.

As you can see, the hem facing piece is quite similar on each side - mark a notch on the side seam to indicate which side needs to connect to the back facing piece. This will save any confusion when you are sewing the facing pieces together.

In the original Whitlow pattern (and all In the Folds patterns), the facing piece is exactly the same as the outer piece so prevent any confusion. In industry though, it is common to make the facing pieces slightly smaller than the outer. This helps the facing roll to the inside so that you don't see the seam or glimpses of the facing from the right side. If you would like to try this, go for it!

All you need to do is trim off 2-3mm from the edge that will be sewn to the outer piece - in this case the hem line. 

Step 4
Repeat process to draft the back hem facing. We need our front and back facings to be the same width.

Step 5
Take the BACK HEM FACING and place it on top of the FRONT HEM FACING - transfer the notches to the side seam of the BACK HEM FACING. Add cutting instructions as marked on the original pattern.

And that's it! Your new hem facing pieces are ready to go.


 


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