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Curated by ITF - Issue 14

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Pants Fitting pattern + Fit Kit

With this project we’ll walk you through everything you need to do to sew a pants toile and prepare for a fitting with our Pants Fitting pattern and jam-packed Fit Kit. After spending time learning and practising the different skills and techniques required to sew pants (with Issue 13 of Curated by ITF), we moved our focus on to fitting. 

We know that the process of fitting and making toiles can be overwhelming, but we firmly believe that if you are armed with the right knowledge and the support of a fantastic sewing community you will be able to make a pair of pants that you not only love and are proud of, but that fit your wonderfully unique and beautiful body like a glove. And can we let you in on a little secret? It’s not as hard as you think! With a workflow and a step-by-step process of the toile making and fitting process, you will feel confident to know exactly what you need to do and in what order. And our Fitting Checklist will become a handy resource that you can refer to time and time again.

We’ve created the pattern and Fit Kit so you can dip in and out as much as you’d like. If you’re a complete beginner to pants, just choose one or two alterations to focus on. Or if you’re ready, give a few a go and get stuck into creating those perfect fitting pants you’ve been dreaming about!

Project Details

Armed with a pants pattern, a comprehensive Fit Kit and a fitting checklist you will know exactly what you need to do to select a size, make a toile and conduct a fitting. We’ll then show you what to look for during the fitting process, and how to make alterations to the pattern to achieve a better fit.

We’ve written detailed tutorials on what to look for on your toile, how to make amendments, adapt the pattern and lastly (but definitely not least!), how to check that your alterations actually work.

You’ll then be able to take all these new skills with you whenever you approach a new pants pattern! Especially next month, when we show you how to design your very own pants patterns, using this month’s pattern as a base.

What you'll learn from this project

Through this project we'll delve into:

  • How to sew a toile
  • The order of fitting pants
  • The difference between crotch length and crotch depth
  • How to remove those pesky draglines at the back of your pants!
  • Taking alterations from toile to pattern.
  • Essential pattern-making techniques needed to adapt patterns

Through our Fit Kit you will learn all the pattern alterations you need for pants fitting such as:

  • Adjusting crotch length or depth
  • Sway back
  • Full butt adjustment
  • Baggy back/ flat butt adjustment
  • Full / thin thigh adjustment
  • Thin thigh adjustment
  • Full tummy adjustment
  • Reshaping side seams
  • Adjusting dart width or length
  • Adjusting the waistband

    Pattern + Fit Kit

    With this issue you will receive the Pants Fitting pattern that will be used as a base to kick-start your pants fitting journey. The pattern sits on the waist and has a fly front, shaped waistband and back darts. The pants are drafted to be fitted around the waist and hips, before dropping into a wide legged pant. 

    The pattern has been kept as simple as possible to assist you with the toiling and fitting process. Once you are satisfied with the fit of the pants, you will be bale to use this pattern to design a range of different pant types.

    Digital product details

    The pattern is suitable for printing on both A4 and US letter sized paper. A copy shop version is also included in the file (A0 or US 36" x 48").

    SIZE A - J
    Print at home pattern: 30 pages.
    Print shop version: 2 x A0 pages.

    SIZE G - P
    Print at home pattern: 39 pages.
    Print shop version: 2 x A0 pages.

    The pattern includes embedded layers. This means that you can select only the size/s you would like to print.

    The Pants Fit Kit: 84 pages containing a broad range of patternmaking and fitting tutorials to guide you through the process of fitting pants. The booklet is suitable for printing on both A4 and US letter sized paper, or can be viewed onscreen using a PDF viewer.

    Pants Fitting sewing instructions: 19 pages.


    We created a range of different fitting tutorials for the Pants Fit Kit. They have been designed so that no matter what your patternmaking or fitting experience is, there will be something for you.

    For those of you who are ready to dive right into getting everything fitting just how you like, work your way through the Pants Fitting Checklist from start to finish.

    If you’re a beginner, but feel confident to give Pants sewing and fitting a go, focus on just a couple of the tutorials. If you hit a problem, be sure to ask your questions in our Mighty Networks community. We’d love to help!

    Mighty Networks community

    By purchasing this issue you will gain access to the extra resources we shared in our online community group when we released the project. This means that you will be able to ask questions, share your makes and connect with other makers who are also on a mission to learn new skills and sew clothing in a slow and conscious way. 

    The pattern is available in both sizes A - J and sizes G - P. Our size charts can be found here.

    This pattern is drafted for a height of 170cm (5’7”). Use the LENGTHEN/SHORTERN line on the pattern to make alterations to the length.

    Fabric requirements and finished garment measurements can be found here

    Pattern includes seam allowances.

    Suggested fabric

    This pattern has been designed to be made as a toile / muslin so you can concentrate on fit. We suggest using stable woven fabrics such as mid-weight cotton, cotton calico, cotton drill etc.

    Fabric requirements can be found here.


    This pattern has been designed to be made as a toile / muslin so you can concentrate on fit. We suggest using stable woven fabrics such as mid-weight cotton, cotton calico, cotton drill etc.

    • Thread
    • 0.5m (0.5yds) x light to mid-weight fusible interfacing
    • Optional: trouser zip or standard dress zip (Please note: A zip is not required for a toile, but you can use one if you would like).
      - Sizes A-C: 15cm (6in)
      - Sizes D-F: 18cm (7in)
      - Sizes G-J: 20cm (18in)
      - Sizes K-P: 25cm (10in)

    Have a question?

    If you have any questions please see our FAQ and Digital Product Policy.