Hove jacket

I've now made two jackets with this pattern. For the first version, I sized down 1 size and still found it a little roomier than what I wanted - no biggie, more room for layering. So for the second, I ended up sizing down 3 sizes, lengthening the torso and sleeves (I'm 5'9" with a long torso), and it was perfect. I wear it all the time. I have a large bicep and even at 3 sizes down, I did not have to do a full bicep adjustment.

Aside from the beautiful unique design, there were two things that really impressed me and have made me an ITF fan. First, the instructions were by far the best instructions I've come across on my sewing adventures. Every step is explained with the right amount of detail and is easy to understand. I would consider myself an advanced beginner/intermediate skill sewist and with these instructions I believe even a true beginner could successfully make this jacket with a little time and patience. There is a perfect tutorial on making bias tape included at the beginning, which I've referred back to many times for sewing other projects. The tip to sew the binding before sewing the seams was a game changer. It made the final product look much more polished. The second thing that really impressed me was that I emailed to ask about the yardage if I wanted to use a different fabric for the hood lining and facings and the ITF team not only responded right away, they also calculated the yardage for me for the size I requested. To have that kind of personalized service from an online retailer is so rare these days, so it deserves to be recognized.

This jacket looks like a complicated make but the pattern pieces all come together seamlessly and the instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow. I used a soft wool blend suiting fabric with a printed cotton poplin for the bias binding and pocket lining (the bias bound seams finish off the jacket beautifully). I've had so many compliments when wearing it.

A very happy discovery for me. IN THE FOLDS really answers my needs. The service and it's professionnalism are way beyond expected. But most of all, the patterns have original style lines and both the fit and the finish are fabulous. Furthermore, I also love the super clear instructions. I started making a toile for the HOVE JACKET and both my husband and I just love it. I am now making it with a beautiful light egyptian coton. I also just finished a toile and a final version in scrap silks of the COLLINS TOP which came out super nice. And today, I downloaded the ELWOOD DRESS that I intend to make the final version in silk. Yes, I am now completely adicted to IN THE FOLDS.

It was a wonderful sewing project to make the Hove jacket. It was pretty tricky, but I loved it! I also took the opportunity to learn how to make bias tape.

It's rare that a jacket pattern is so ok that you don't need a month to recover after making it. This pattern was not really an exception, but that was due to my fabric choice rather than the pattern. It is a hugely oversized jacket with relatively short sleeves and a funny shaped facing, offering you a great finish even if you are relatively new to sewing. The major caveat is that this pattern is drafted for a 5'7" human and really benefits from adjustment to suit your height (because it's so oversized). This adjustment will affect the way the pockets sit in the front curve and it hasn't really been accounted for in the instructions. As long as you are cautious to match your pocket curve to the front curve after adjusting, the pieces line up like a charm and in an appropriate fabric (think DRAPE!) it could easily be sewn up in a day. I made mine in a cardboard-like reflective nylon and the result is a surprisingly pleasing waterproof and shiny tent, under which I can layer lots, but the drape is definitely missing.